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Calistoga Wineries

By Heather Irwin

Vincent Arroyo Winery

Lowdown: We were feeling a little emotionally scarred after having our last $10 pulled from our pockets by a surly tasting-room snob who served us warm wine with a sneer. But we'd heard about this little out-of-the-way place just down the road, Vincent Arroyo, where folks were plain old glad to see you. And they had some darn nice wine. Nothing fancy to look at, Arroyo is basically a big barn, a gravel driveway and a little table set up among the barrels. "Hey, if you don't like it, go ahead and dump it out," we were told with a smile by the tasting staff. Simple and homey, Arroyo was just the transition winery we needed to fall a little bit back in love with Napa.

Mouth value: Arroyo's tiny production and solid winemaking leave most of its signature wine, Petite Sirah, gone before the bottles ever hit the shelves. The '02 is completely sold out, but you can taste the '03 (still in barrels) and get on the list. Fortunately, Arroyo has some nice little reds that won't leave you broke and sniveling. The '02 Mélange Reserve ($15), made with 70 percent Gamay grapes, has beautiful color and depth with some nice oak on it. Take it to a party.

The '02 Merlot ($28) is pretty and delicate--which is fine if you like that thing in a Merlot. Frankly, I don't, and it hit the bucket. The '02 Cabernet ($30) was the most impressive of the lot, with deep vanilla, cherry and inky dark color. I'd take it home in a heartbeat if it promised to respect me in the morning. The '02 "Nameless" wine ($27) is a Bordeaux blend that still felt a bit tight, but might take on a little more character after breathing or cellaring a bit.

Five-second snob: We got this straight from the horse's mouth: "Appointment only" means anything but that. Most of the time, zoning and permit regulations for small wineries don't allow them to have more than a few people at the winery at any one time, so they are forced to take "appointments," much to their dismay. Many winemakers say they're more than happy to host you--appointment or not. If the gates are open and someone's around to pour, drive on in and pull up a glass.

Spot: Vincent Arroyo Winery, 2361 Greenwood Ave., Calistoga. Open daily, 10am to 4:30pm. 707.942.6995.

From the February 16-22, 2005 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.

Clos Pegase Winery

Lowdown: Long before COPIA arrived on the scene, Clos Pegase was extolling the virtues of art and wine--and giant bronze thumbs. Located just outside Calistoga, this winery is equal parts art museum and winery, merging the grape with the great masters of sculpture, painting and architecture.

Completed in 1987 by the famous architect Michael Graves (popularized recently by his line of kitchen wares at Target), the massive columns and soaring porticoes hark back to ancient Greece. The ultramodern sculptures, however, including the aforementioned giant thumb are, well, a little less classical in nature but impressive in scale, if nothing else.

Mouth value: Of the three tastings offered, the best bet is the $10 red wine selection--though I was frankly disappointed at not having the option to taste any of the winery's white wines without forking over another $5. When I queried the staff about this, I was asked if I liked whites or reds, and told to taste what I liked. Um, right. I like both. Frankly, the policy seems a little screwy.

In any case, the 2001 Mitsuko's Vineyard Pinot Noir ($30) is a nice, earthy wine with lots of sweet fruit. New to the winery, the Pinot is a charming addition despite being quite different in character than its coastal cousins. I was less stunned by the 2000 Mitsuko's Vineyard Merlot ($25), which seemed a little flat, as did the 2001 Pegase Circle Claret ($22). Pegase's wines, however, tend to have a more subtle, Bordeaux-influenced quality rather than the big, beefy Cabs typical of Napa. The 2001 Pegase Circle Reserve Zinfandel ($22) had some of the qualities of both, with a subtle velvety quality that's not usually found in typically spicy, peppery Zinfandels, as well as lots of oak and fruit. Cellaring will likely reveal even more curves and sex appeal in this wine.

Don't miss: Great art and wine is nice, but petrified wood? Who can beat that? Just down the road is the Petrified Forest. You've probably driven past it a thousand times. Stop into the gift shop, if nothing else, to learn how wood turns to stone--or silica, to be precise. Cheesy, educational, and very . . . geological.

Five-second snob: Clos Pegase is named for the winged horse, Pegasus. The myth goes something like this: where Pegasus' hooves scraped the earth, great springs arose to nourish the grapes. From those grapes came great works of art and literature. (Everyone knows that the grape inspires greatness, as well as really nasty hangovers). Ergo, Pegasus was responsible indirectly for such greatness. Clos is the French term for an enclosed vineyard. Feel enlightened?

Spot: Clos Pegase Winery, 1060 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga. Open daily, 10:30am to 5pm. Winetasting, $5-$25. 1.800.366.8583.

From the November 3-9, 2004 issue of the North Bay Bohemian.